The first thing you will need to do is watch this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bv1VzvmV9s&src_vid=mYMRWyhKtkw&feature=iv&annotation_id=annotation_82670865 Now, let's begin. The first thing I think I should tell you is that this requires two sets of displays, one for the addition, and one for the subtraction. It is possible to make it so that there is one set by using the clone command, but I'll go into that later, and also, this is a huge project. You will probably not have enough supplies to cover the costs. First, build those displays. I recommend building at least 4 displays for each set, but if you're feeling ambitious, then go ahead and build more. Also, if you are wondering how a non-binary calculator can convert binary (and how it could even add), it's because the inputs are hooked up to several pulse multipliers. Also, this calculator is a bit slow, about 3-5 seconds slower than a binary calculator. Anyways, let's focus on doing the addition display. Hook all of the displays up (just the addition, we're only on the addition, now.) In the video, this is the red circuit. It will be the "carry" or "regrouping" circuit. Now, program it. Place in all of the blocks that make up the numbers. Once you have that done, build a row of 19 blocks from the right of the display (if you want your addition displays on the left, but if you are using the clone command to combine the displays, go in either direction.) Now build that row up to the level of the top of the addition displays. At the top, in the second row, replace every second block with a redstone lamp. There should be 9. Place a button on each of the lamps. This will be your input. Now, two blocks below, place 5 lamps, evenly spaced apart (if you built 5 displays, do four lamps if you built four displays, and so on.) These will be your place value levers. Put a lever on each lamp. Now, for the addition and subtraction. Place two levers (or two buttons, if you are only doing one set of displays) two rows below the "place value" levers. If you are building two different sets of displays, then you can do both operations at once. Now, put a block in front of each input button. put some redstone on it. Now, put a upwards-facing sticky piston in front of that block. Then, place a block on top of that sticky piston. Alternatively, you can replace the sticky piston with a regular one, and put sand on top. This will create a monostable circuit. Extend each of the lines out another FIFTEEN blocks. This is so you will have enough space to build the pulse multipliers. Don't use any pulse multiplier- use this one, made by Sethbling. It is customizable, so the displays won't break, and explode, and crash your world, etc. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m0PSXz9BLoQ Don't worry about building that monostable circuit with the comparator. We already did that. This is where we exit the wonderful world of Youtube, so pay attention, or else something might go wrong. Now, connect the pulse multipliers (you don't need to connect a pulse multiplier to the first input line, 1 times 1 is 1) to each line. Remember that 9 is on the left, and 1 is on the right. Unless you want to have your numbers in reverse order, but don't worry; as long as you don't mess up the programming. Ugh, that takes so long. Anyways, this is the hard part. put the number of items in the dropper that is the number of the input line. For example, put 5 items into the pulse multiplier that comes from the #5 button. Connect each of the outputs to a central line, preferably perpendicular to the input lines. Now, place a sticky piston in the center, with two 2-tick repeaters running into it. Place a redstone block on its face. You're halfway done with your input system. Now, go to your "place value" levers. This is like a river; all you are doing is redirecting a pulse. The pulse gets multiplied, and those pulses go to the addition side, and to the thousands display. So connect your place value lines to some downward-facing sticky pistons with blocks on their face. Connect each lever to a piston on the left, and a piston on the right. Each of these levers are going to the same place value display. The hundreds lever will let pulses go to the hundreds display. Now, connect your addition/subtraction operation levers to two downward-facing sticky pistons with blocks on their face. Run the input line one block below both blocks, leaving a space underneath the block. Connect the outputs from the operation lines to the place value lines. Now you are done with the input system. Building the subtraction circuit is easy; all you have to do is program the numbers backwards, and place the solid block in the "carry" circuit lower one block. For the logic circuit and binary converter, build a separate section, preferably to the left of the addition displays. Put two columns of 4 rows each, of redstone lamps. Label them with the names of different logic gates, like AND, NAND, OR, NOR, XOR, XNOR, IMPLIES, and NOT(A). Put two lamps (these will be your inputs) to the side of the columns. Label them input 1 and 2, A and B, or whatever satisfies you. Then, just hook them up to a bunch of logic gates. I suggest doing running the outputs from one of the AND, OR, and XOR gates into the top lamp, and inverting it. That way you can go without building another 3 bulky logic gates. Also, if you don't have space, try this design. http://www.reddit.com/redstone/comments/1b0dmh/compact_silent_xor_gate/ The input signals must be the same strength, so just add repeaters. OR gates are pretty simple. It's just combing the signals. AND gates can be made in lots of ways, and most of them are compact. Now for the binary converter. This is the most difficult and repetitive part of the calculator. I already did the math, so if you did 3 displays, you will have an 8-bit input, although the max input is 9 bits, but and 8 bit binary converter sounds more impressive. If you have four displays, then you will have a 12-bit input, max input 13 bits. If you have 5 displays, you will have a freakin' huge 16-bit binary converter. Fancy. This does not have a max input of 17 bits, because the sum of 20 through 216 exceeds 5 digits. Now, you will have to do a little math. So the rightmost digit in base 10 stands for 1, right? And the next is 10, and the next is 100. These are all powers of 10. We're using binary, so we're working with base 2. The rightmost digit stands for 1, The next digit stands for 2, the next for 4, and so on. If you have a 8-bit binary converter, the leftmost bit input will stand for 128. 9-bit's leftmost bit will stand for 256. 12-bit's leftmost digit will stand for 2048, and a 13-bit's leftmost digit will stand for 4096. A 16-bit's leftmost digit will stand for 32768. To make things simpler, label the buttons as you go (you may also want to label them on the other side as well.) You might also want to build lines, about one or two blocks apart, that lead to the bottom right side of the counter, where the three repeaters go into the block with redstone on it (black circuit). Do the same for the rest of the counters. These will carry the multiplied pulses to the counters. This is like the input system, but on a much bigger scale. WAY bigger. I'm guessing you will need a minimum of 25 pulse multipliers for just three displays. So, how it works. Say you press the 11th button from the left. This button stands for 210, or 1024. Let's separate the digits. The 1 stands for 1 thousand. The 0 doesn't matter because it is still 0. the 2 stands tor twenty. 4 stands for 4. So, 1024 = 1000 + 20 + 4. SO, instead of sending 1024 pulses to the ones display, we'll just makes things simpler by sending one pulse to the thousands display, 2 to the tens display, and 4 to the ones display. But you only need 2 pulse multipliers, for the 2 and the 4, because the one doesn't need a pulse multiplier, and the 0 stands for nothing. Do this for each button. Tip: Try reusing as many of the pulse multipliers as you can. For example, you can use the pulse multiplier for the #4 button for the #64 button, because they share the same digit in the same place value (4 in the ones place). Good luck, and also, I think I should mention that the binary converter can break the displays if you input certain numbers, like 32 and 64 and 4. You might want to wait a while before pulling another lever. Also, you might want to make some pixel art above the calculator.
There's been this whole debate on dress code and double-standards for girls, all of which I completely agree with. If someone is sexually attracted to some chick's shoulder they're a creep, and schools shouldn't be making it a girl's responsibility to control a guy's reaction to an outfit. But honestly, as a high schooler, I think we should all be wearing uniforms. First of all, there is no pressure to dress a certain way, and the divide between rich and poor becomes more narrow (obviously, yes the rich kid will come in a sports car and the poor kid on a bike or something, but there are less visual indicators of wealth). In addition to this, school is like work, it's supposed to be a professional learning environment, yet now it's literally all about how cool you look, and on top of that, wearing a nike hoodie and stained sweatpants doesn't really convey much professionalism. Plus, choosing a nice outfit can take a lot of time, and a uniform can easily cut out like 5-10 mins of deciding on what to wear. We see this example now, we're all in lockdown, and I think a lot of us can relate to feeling a whole lot less motivated when all we're doing is sitting around in our pajamas. Another way I see uniforms being helpful is cost effectiveness. Schools can reduce costs for poorer students, but seriously, how many uniforms do you need to buy for a school year? Let's say you have 5 shirts, 5 pants/skirts/shorts, 2 jackets, 2 pairs of shoes, and an extra $30 in expenses, just for good measures. That would be: 5(30) + 5(35) + 2(60) + 2(70)+ 30 = 615 $615 really isn't that much for something you wear every single day for a whole school year. Assuming there are 180 days in a school year, that's $3.41 per day for a whole outfit, which is significantly less cost per use than owning lots of shirts, pants, hoodies, shoes, etc, which would be needed to make complete outfits. Also people could choose what they want in the school's uniform options, ex. a gender non-binary student or just a dude who likes some air in between his legs can wear skirts. And people shouldn't be punished a lot if they break the dress code or wear something else, the school should just tell them not to do it and move on. I get freedom of speech and stuff, but I think letting kids express themselves with other things (hairstyles, nail polish, jewelry, backpacks, coats), can actually be fun. I think if we reframe the whole uniform argument from "we want you all to fall in line exactly the way we want" to "this is just a way for us to reduce decision fatigue and help create a more level social playing field," people would be more on board. Edit: This is unpopularopinion. The reason why the recommendations on this community are things 99% of the population agrees on is because everyone upvotes what they agree with. I get you disagree, that's why this is unpopular. Downvoting if you disagree or upvoting because you agree kinda ruins the purpose of the community. Edit 2: I know that $615 is a lot for school uniforms, I'm saying it's not a lot if you're purchasing a lot of outfits (see my calculation). People could probably get away with less tops, skirts, etc. Also, as I said above, schools could cover the cost of uniforms for the kids who need that assistance. There's no way on earth I'd expect a family living paycheck to paycheck to suddenly pull out $615.
Our fourth release of the year, MAME 0.221, is now ready. There are lots of interesting changes this time. We’ll start with some of the additions. There’s another load of TV games from JAKKS Pacific, Senario, Tech2Go and others. We’ve added another Panorama Screen Game & Watch title: this one features the lovable comic strip canine Snoopy. On the arcade side, we’ve got Great Bishi Bashi Champ and Anime Champ (both from Konami), Goori Goori (Unico), the prototype Galun.Pa! (Capcom CPS), a censored German version of Gun.Smoke, a Japanese location test version of DoDonPachi Dai-Ou-Jou, and more bootlegs of Cadillacs and Dinosaurs, Final Fight, Galaxian, Pang! 3 and Warriors of Fate. In computer emulation, we’re proud to present another working UNIX workstation: the MIPS R3000 version of Sony’s NEWS family. NEWS was never widespread outside Japan, so it’s very exciting to see this running. F.Ulivi has added support for the Swedish/Finnish and German versions of the HP 86B, and added two service ROMs to the software list. ICEknight contributed a cassette software list for the Timex NTSC variants of the Sinclair home computers. There are some nice emulation improvements for the Luxor ABC family of computers, with the ABC 802 now considered working. Other additions include discrete audio emulation for Midway’s Gun Fight, voice output for Filetto, support for configurable Toshiba Pasopia PAC2 slot devices, more vgmplay features, and lots more Capcom CPS mappers implemented according to equations from dumped PALs. This release also cleans up and simplifies ROM loading. For the most part things should work as well as or better than they did before, but MAME will no longer find loose CHD files in top-level media directories. This is intentional – it’s unwieldy with the number of supported systems. As usual, you can get the source and 64-bit Windows binary packages from the download page. This will be the last month where we use this format for the release notes – with the increase in monthly development activity, it’s becoming impractical to keep up.
MAME Testers Bugs Fixed
07560: [Crash/Freeze] (cave.cpp) hotdogst: Using debugger memdump command causes MAME to crash. (O. Galibert)
07603: [Documentation] (snes.cpp) snes [asterix]: Release year does not match title screen. (ArcadeShadow)
07615: [Documentation] (cninja.cpp) mutantf, mutantf2, mutantf3, mutantf4, deathbrd: Release years are incorrect. (jkburks)